Musar Red, Chateau Musar 2019

Mid ruby, soft but not yet brick-coloured at the rim. Rich aroma of senescent red fruits, sweet leather and a suggestion of incense. Classic Musar layers of fruit and complex tertiary aromas, spicy. As always, sui generis. The tannins are firm, leathery but somehow taste sweet, with brisk red-fruit sweetness and yet fresh-tasting on the long finish. It’s unusual that the Cabernet does not dominate in a blend like this but the oxidative winemaking seems to give equal place to all three varieties. As it opens, that impression of incense turns into a floral note akin to lavender. Deliciously chewy on the finish, satisfyingly complete. If past vintages are anything to go by, this should continue to age for many years since it is already harmoniously evolved. Dry and leathery on the finish but not in the least drying. It does need food. Drink: 2026-2036

Focused, textured and driven, with currants, earth, dried mushrooms and baking spices on the nose. It’s medium-bodied with fine, firm tannins. Well structured and savory, with a powdery texture in the persistent, focused finish. Drink or hold.