Shiraz Amon Ra, Glaetzer 2023

Jeez, the Amon-Ra is in fine form with this release. There's the sense of compression and fruit density that you'd expect from Ebenezer-born fruit, but there is detail and freshness to its form. Nothing is overbearing or blown out; everything is nicely in balance. Glossy blackberry, blueberry and damson plum fruit with hints of baking spices, earth, fruitcake, dark chocolate bullets, wood spice, pan juices, violets and vanillin oak. Full bodied and purely fruited, with a swell of fine, powdery tannins and a finish that stretches out beautifully. Very nicely done indeed!

This presents a dense labyrinth of black-fruited intrigue, requiring furrowed-brow concentration to dig through all the layers. On the nose, there’s tar, olive, black liquorice and a whiff of barnyard funk rising above the blackberry hedge. The palate opens with all these characters and more – black cherry, blackcurrant and black pepper, all rolling and roiling in an intense wrestle. This will take many years in the cellar to completely calm down. Winemaker Ben Glaetzer has never taken a backward step in presenting big wines with big character, and this dense, dark unfiltered beast fits the mould precisely. Drink: 2027-2045